Lalalaland...: Everest Base Camp - Guide to doing the EBC trek independently and its cost

For most outdoor enthusiasts, trekking the Everest Base Camp definitely top their wish list. You get to see the highest mountain in the world up close! It was in my wish list too and my dream came true in November 2018.

Most people choose to go with an organized tour with a trekking agency as it is the easiest option. Everything is taken care of for you. If you are alone and have little experience in trekking, this is definitely a good idea. But of course it is more expensive. The cheapest I came across while planning my trip was from a local trekking agency, at USD 1135 per person (ground package) for a 14 days trip.

Some choose to DIY, with only help of a guide or porter. This is perfect for those who doesn't like big groups and likes to do things at their own pace. It is very easy to find guide and porter in Kathmandu or Lukla. Most trekking agencies or teahouses will be able to help you arrange one. You can save a couple of hundred dollars or more with this option. And they will help you book your flight to Lukla if necessary.

Few do it independently. For freedom. On a budget. You only need to buy the flight ticket and get the permits. Oh and be flexible, as you don't have any bookings ahead for the accommodation. And look after yourself.

It all depends on what suits you. For me, I chose to do it independently as I wanted to save cost (but along the journey I did hire a porter) and freedom. I was afraid I would slow down my group, or what if we don't get along well, or what if I get irritated with other people's poor time management. It was daunting at the beginning but with enough research and planning, and knowing what to expect really helped.

Here's what you need to do and how much is the cost.

COST

Flight to Lukla

The most important thing to do once you decide to do the EBC trek on your own is to book the flight ticket from Kathmandu to Lukla (and return), the starting point of EBC trek.

I bought my tickets online at Yeti Airlines . Fare was USD 337 return (this is why EBC trek is expensive!, and the price is fixed so you buy early or late, it's the same), with 10kg luggage allowance. Always book the earliest possible flight as late flights often get cancelled due to bad weather. I took the first flight out at 6.15am and Alhamdulillah, it was a smooth journey.

Pro tip: Get a seat on the left side for gorgeous mountain view.

Permits

Just before you start the trek in Lukla, you need to pay the Solukhumbu local fee which cost Rs 2000 at a counter there.

And later at Monjo (or you can obtain it in advance at Nepal Tourism Board Office in Kathmandu), you need to register for the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit. It costs Rs 3000.

(Rs 100 is approximately USD 1)

Carry the permit at all times during the trek. Some of the villages you'll be passing through will have check points.

Accommodations

I budgeted Rs 3000 per day on the mountains.

Rs 500 is allocated for daily accommodations at the teahouses. Prices change between off-peak and peak seasons so you might get cheaper or higher rates depending on the timing of your trip.

Everybody stays in the teahouses along the villages on the EBC trek. The teahouse usually have a large communal area or dining hall where you eat and socialize with other hikers. In the centre of the area, there will be a fireplace that burns wood and yak dung.

I can say most of the teahouses are cheap as they only charged around Rs 200 - 500 per night (for single room), except Lobuche cos the village has a fixed price of Rs 700. But the condition is that you are expected to have dinner or breakfast there. If you only overnight without having any meals, they'll usually charge the room rates higher.

The room is very basic but certainly sufficient to provide safe shelter for the night. Rooms are constructed from thin timber and wooden beds with foam mattresses and thick blankets are provided. It gets very cold at night so do bring -20°C sleeping bag. I rented one in Kathmandu for Rs 100 per day.

my room in Khumbu Lodge, Namche Bazaar

Ensuite rooms come with attached bathroom and hot shower. For those room without one, there are shared bathrooms and you have to pay to use the hot shower. Be prepared to pay Rs 200 - 500. I didn't shower daily so I brought wet wipes to clean myself.

There are lights in the room but there are no electricity sockets for you to charge your electronic devices. You have to pay Rs 200 - 600 per hour for charging in the communal area.

Food/Drinks

From Rs 3000 daily budget, a large part of it goes to food and drinks.

The teahouses serve basic western food (pancakes, sandwiches, spaghetti and pizza), rice meals (dal bhat, fried rice), and traditional Nepalese momos (dumplings filled with meat/vegetables). Cold and hot drinks such as coffee, tea, soda, and beer are also available.

menu at Khumbu Lodge, Namche Bazaar

Dal bhat is a good option as it is usually refillable. Dal (lentil soup) and Bhat (rice) is the staple food of Nepalese. You will hear or see on t-shirts - "Dal Bhat Power 24 hour". This popular catchphrase means if you eat dal bhat, you will have energy all day long.

Bottled water is sold at Rs 100 (1.5L) and it gets more expensive as you go higher. I saved money by bringing a water bottle and refill it with tap water. Then, sterilize it with water purification tablet like the Aquatabs. Bought one box at Kathmandu (most outdoor shops sell it) for Rs 100.

Internet

I bought Simcard in Kathmandu for Rs 2800. 5GB valid for 30 days. Nope you can't buy 7 days + 7 days for your 2 weeks trip. I tried but the seller just didn't let me cos she said you have to register the number or something. You get coverage up until Pangboche, and occasionally at Dingboche (managed to update my Instagram on Nangkartshang during my acclimatization hike).

WiFi is available in most teahouses but you also have to pay to use it. WiFi charges range from Rs 200 - 500 per hour, and even then the service is very slow. There is an option to use Everest Link card with prices from Rs 1999 for 10GB. However I am not sure whether or not the connection is good.

Pro tip: In Namche Bazaar, a few places offer free WiFi. I use free WiFi and free charging at Namche Bakery. Spent hours there enjoying my cakes and hot chocolates while getting connected to the world.

Insurance

There are risks hiking at high altitude so it is advisable to have a proper insurance. At the highest point of the EBC trek you will be standing at over 5,550m above sea level, while most travel insurance policies cover only up to 3,000m. Ermmm.. that's not even Namche Bazaar, day 2 of the trek.

So the best option is to buy insurance from overseas such as World Nomad as it covers mountaineering and climbing in remote areas up to 6,000m. I noticed that it is cheaper if you buy early so plan your trip properly. Otherwise, you can tawakal and buy the regular travel insurance.

Porter/Guide

At first I decided to do the trek completely independent. But later during the hike, I had symptoms of mild Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and it really worried me. So I decided to hire a porter halfway so that my body can get some rest from the burden of carrying the heavy backpack.

I got a good porter at a good rate, USD 16/day. Trekking agencies usually quote USD 20/day for porter and USD 25/day for porter/guide. Keep in mind that a good tip is expected.

A porter is only meant to carry up to 20 kg of your belongings so you can share a porter for 2 person. For unnecessary items, you can leave them in your hotel/hostel in Kathmandu at no charge. Porters are not meant to be guides. So don't expect them to be your guide and know everything about the surroundings. Also, few speak English well.

It is best if you hire them from Kathmandu or Lukla but in case you need them halfway like me, ask around at the teahouses and they will help you.

Trekking gear

You can buy or rent most of the trekking gear in Kathmandu, and it's cheap. Trekking poles, trekking pants, windproof jacket, gloves, sleeping bag etc.

For example, I rented a -20°C sleeping bag for Rs 100 per day. For 11 days trekking, I paid Rs 1300 (~ USD 13) - the shop that I rented charged one day before and after though. It's much cheaper than buying one in Malaysia and don't know when will I use it again, as well as saved the space in my backpack.

MISCELLANEOUS

Itinerary

I followed the standard 12-day itinerary used by most trekking agencies, with a slight adjustment.

Day 1 : Kathmandu → Lukla → Monjo

Day 2 : Monjo → Namche Bazaar

Day 3 : Namche Bazaar [acclimatization day]

Day 4 : Namche Bazaar → Tengboche

Day 5 : Tengboche → Dingboche

Day 6 : Dingboche [acclimatization day]

Day 7 : Dingboche → Lobuche

Day 8 : Lobuche → Gorakshep → Base Camp → Gorakshep

Day 9 : Gorakshep → Kala Patthar → Pangboche

Day 10 : Pangboche → Monjo

Day 11 : Monjo → Lukla

Day 12 : Lukla → Kathmandu

Map

The trek is pretty clear, and there are many hikers on the trek so you're most likely safe from getting lost. But it helps if you have a map, to know where you are or to plan your next stay. You can buy trekking maps in Kathmandu for Rs 250 - 400. If you are a cheapskate like me, just print one from the Internet haha.

When to Go?

October to early December is the peak and best time to go trekking. The sky is clear with less haze and clouds which provides better views of the mountains.

Late December to February. The skies are clear but be prepared for temperatures below freezing, and some passes might be closed due to large snow on the trek.

March to May. This is the end of the dry season and the second best time of the year to go trekking as the weather is stable and dry. If you are lucky, you will get to see or even stay in tents at the Base Camp as climbers prepare to scale the summit (usually in May)

June to September. This is the monsoon season and the least popular time to go trekking in Nepal.

How difficult is the EBC Trek?

In terms of terrain, there are no ropes or ice picks needed. There's also no vertical climbing involved.

The trek is not very difficult but the challenge lies in the altitude as the Base Camp stands at a height of 5,364m. The round-trip length of the trek is 130km, which is spread over 12 days of trekking. As long as you are able to trek 4 - 8 hours daily for 12 days, you can complete the trek.

The best way to prepare for the trek is to engage in some basic training beforehand. Running or other cardio exercises are particularly useful to help build stamina. Stair climbing or hill walking is also recommended.

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)

AMS can happen to anyone, even to the fittest person. When I was planning my trip, AMS was what I worried the most. So I read a lot about its precaution.

• Don't ascend too fast. Take a gradual ascent, not more than 600m increase in altitude per day.

• Climb slowly. The locals always say, "bistari, bistari" to the trekkers. It means "slowly, slowly".

• Climb high, sleep low. Meaning if you climb more than 1000 feet (305m) in a day, come down to sleep at a lower altitude. Take acclimatization days to gradually prepare your body for higher and higher altitudes.

• Hydration is important! Ensure you drink enough water. I drank a minimum of 3 liter water daily.

• Eat garlic. I read this tips on the Internet, and my porter also told me the same. So I had garlic soup as side dish during dinner.

• Take Diamox (Acetazolamide), if needed. I didn't plan to take it but after having mild AMS symptom, I took one (a kind couple gave me theirs). Do note that Diamox should be taken before you start trekking as it is by no means a cure as it aims to quicken the acclimatization process and prevent the onset of symptoms.

AMS symptoms

- Headaches (the most common)

- Fatigue

- Nausea

- Shortness of breath

- Dizziness

- Lack of sleep

- Loss of appetite

- Lack of coordination

Remember if you do not have insurance, emergency evacuation with a helicopter to take you down will cost USD 5000. So descent immediately if you feel the symptoms are severe.

Note: Will edit time by time when I remember some other things to add on.

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COST

So here's the total amount I spent for the trip (not including Kuala Lumpur-Kathmandu return flight cos I took business class hahaha. Thought I'd give myself a comfortable journey before and after the trip).

Flight Kathmandu - Lukla (return) : USD 337
Permits (Solokhumbu & Sagarmatha National Park) : Rs 5000
Daily cost (accommodation & meals) for 11 days : Rs 29775
Taxi to/from airport : Rs 1400 (Rs 700 one way from/to Thamel)
Sleeping bag rental : Rs 1300
Porter : Rs 13000
Simcard : Rs 2800
WiFi & Charging : Rs 500
Aquatabs, gloves, toilet roll, souvenir : Rs 1350
Insurance : USD 30

GRAND TOTAL = USD 918 (RM 3855)

(Rs 100 is approximately USD 1)
(USD 1 is approximately RM4.2)

It was not as cheap as I hoped since I had to hire a porter. But I'm happy as I got to do it the way I want it. Still, I saved USD 217 (compared to USD 1135, the cheapest quotation that I got from a local trekking agency).

If you do it independently without a porter, and you have a partner to split the room rates, the cost can be cut down to only about USD 770!

p/s: This is based on my trip in November 2018. Price might be different at the time of your reading.