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July 11, 2019

Everest Base Camp : Day 4 - Namche Bazaar to Tengboche

Woke up a few times to empty my bladder (increased amount of urine is one of the side effects of Diamox, but I also drank three litres of water daily so I dunno... ), luckily the toilet is just in front of my room. Still having problem to sleep but at least it was better than the night before. 

Packed my things and went down for breakfast. Ordered the same menu as yesterday cos it was soo good!

My phone blinked so I checked the incoming WhatsApp message. Mohan told me Dinesh, my porter, will arrive a bit late. So I took my time enjoying my potatoes and hot lemon.

At 8.30am, Khumbu Lodge staff told me my porter has arrived. I let him rest for a while since he hiked from Jorsalle (and hiked from Lukla the night before), before we set off this morning.

Heading out of Namche today, it was a relatively flat trail along the ridgeline. We came across a woman sitting at the side of the trail. There's a donation box, and turns out hikers are asked to donate for trail maintenance. However, Dinesh told me to just walk past her. Okayyy.


flat trail



Mount Kangtega (6,782 metres), if I remember correctly


everyday view

Dinesh and I, we hiked on our own pace. He was always in front but he would stop somewhere taking rests and waited for me, checking whether I was OK before he went out of sights again. The porters, they were fast despite the loads they were carrying. The trail is clear so it is perfectly fine to hike on your own, just like what I planned. Only that now I carried lighter load, just a daypack with me.

That feeling of being alone with the mountains in Nepal is one that I will cherish forever. There's an amazing feeling of calm, of solitude, of still. Just you and the nature.



The trail then goes downhill through the beautiful forest to the valley below. Ohh this is not good cos it'd be hell climbing back up to Tengboche which sits at 3,870 metres.


egg sandwich for lunch

We had lunch at Phunke Tenga (3,260 metres) before crossing the suspension bridge. A group of yaks were already at the other end of the bridge so I waited a while, letting them pass first.


beautifulllll

superhuman

yaks


Along the trail, I encountered sherpas carrying loads on their backs, using only a strap around their head to help distribute the weight. Everything delivered beyond Namche was carried by them or the yaks; food, drinks, furniture, construction materials... These sherpas are superhuman. And the yaks are superyaks.




We later passed another check point. Showed the park permit and also need to pay Rs 500 for Tengboche/Debuche/Pangboche's accommodation in advance here.

After numerous rest stops, finally we made it to Tengboche at around 2.30pm.


entrance gate to Tengboche

Tonight I'd be sleeping in Tengboche Guesthouse. Dumped my bag in the room and out I went to check out Tengboche Monastery, one of the most famous monasteries in Nepal. The monastery opens during certain hours only so I had to be quick not to miss it. It is well worth seeing.



Tengboche Monastery

inside the monastery


Tengboche Monastery opening times




Mount Ama Dablam (6,812 metres)

As I was taking some photos outside the monastery, thick fogs swirled in. Couldn't see anything so I retreated to the teahouse.

pasta with cheese and tomato sauce for dinner 

Dinner tonight would be pasta, with hot chocolate. I looked around the dining room. There's only around ten people staying here, and all of us were kept warm by a central fireplace which is fueled by yak's dungs. Yup.. shit.

dining hall at Tengboche Guesthouse


how to boil water

Namche Bazaar to Tengboche map

Elevation at Namche Bazaar: 3,440 m
Elevation at Tengboche: 3,870 m
Elevation change: +430 m
Distance: 9 km
Duration: 6 hours

Amount spent:
Breakfast - Rs 630
Lunch - Rs 600
Night stay at Tengboche Guesthouse, single room - Rs 500
Dinner - Rs 750
Total = Rs 2480

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 67 | 8 91011

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